How to Make a Bra Cup

By Michelle Powell-Smith

Creating your own bra can guarantee a perfect fit. Knowing how to make bra cups allows you to install a bra cup into an existing halter top or strapless dress. Once you have perfected a bra-cup pattern, you can make custom-fit bras in the styles and colors you prefer, or modify garments to provide the support you need. The right style depends on your bust size and the support you prefer.

If you are smaller busted, a two-part bra cup is adequate; a three-part cup is a better choice for a larger-busted woman. Purchase a bra pattern, use a free downloaded pattern or make your own pattern from a bra you own.

Trace your pattern onto interfacing or pattern tracing paper. Factor in a 1/4-inch seam allowance. If you are working with a bra you own, dismantle the bra with a seam ripper, or carefully trace the pieces and add a seam allowance.

Cut the pieces of your bra cup out of your desired fabric. While stretch fabrics are more typical for bras, you may assemble your bra using any sort of fabric.

Double the thickness of your cup, particularly the lower half of the cup, for additional support. Make a trial bra cup or muslin out of unwanted fabric to adjust for fit the first time.

Baste your bra cup together.

Try the cup on. It should fully cover the lower half of the breast and fit without gaping on the upper portion of the breast. Bunching or gaping in the upper half of the cup is fixed by pinching a small dart into the upper section of the cup.

When the fit is correct, use a seam ripper to dismantle the cup and make any necessary changes to the pattern.

Sew together the bra cups. Maintain an exact seam allowance.

Tip

You can adjust your basic bra cup by adding lining for addition support, thin padding or even larger pads for a push-up effect.

Warning

Seam allowances must be exact; any deviance results in a different bra size.

About the Author

With a master's degree in art history from the University of Missouri-Columbia, Michelle Powell-Smith has been writing professionally for more than a decade. An avid knitter and mother of four, she has written extensively on a wide variety of subjects, including education, test preparation, parenting, crafts and fashion.