How to Wire Wrap Faceted Gemstones

Faceted gemstones are popular centerpieces for pendants and other types of jewelry, and they can be used to create one-of-a-kind pieces of wearable art. Some faceted gemstone jewelry uses “claws” to hold the stones in place. Unfortunately, the stones can work loose and become lost. Wire wrapping stones is an alternative that provides extra security and added aesthetic value.

Measure the depth of the faceted stone. The number of pieces of 20-gauge square soft wire needed will depend on the depth of the stone.

Cut as many 8-inch pieces of 20-gauge soft wire as needed to equal the depth of the stone. Lay them side by side. Tape each end of the bundle to secure them. Measure the midpoint, and mark it with a felt-tip pen.

Fold 1/16 inch of the 22-gauge half-round wire with the flat-nosed pliers. Place it slightly off center on the bundle, and wrap it around the bundle to bind it. Typically, six turns are sufficient. Cut the half-round wire. With the flat-nosed pliers, fold it over on the same side you started to finish the binding.

Turn the bundle over, and make a mark ¼ inch and ½ inch from the each edge of the binding. Pull the top wire up (away from the bundle) on each side of the binding with a pen knife. Using round-nosed pliers, bend the wire down (toward the bundle) at the ¼-inch mark. Bend the wire so it runs parallel to the bundle at the ½-inch mark. As a result, the first wire will create a small triangle on each side of the binding.

Using square hard wire, create a second binding on each side of the first binding where the top wire rejoins the bundle at the ½-inch mark. These bindings should begin and end on the same side as the first binding.

Wrap the bundle around the edge of your faceted gemstone. The center binding should be at the bottom of the stone. Bend the triangular pieces around the front of the stone to secure it.

Bend the entire bundle where it meets at the top of the stone. Using 22-gauge square hard wire, bind both sections of the bundle where it joins. You should create the binding using four turns, moving toward the gemstone.

Bend the front wire on both sides of the bundle down toward the front of the stone. Bind these wires. Spread them below the binding, wrapping them around the stone and joining them in the back. Bind the wires in back of the stone and bend them so they run the height of the gemstone. Tuck the wires into the bundle at the bottom.

Cut the rest of the bundle about ½-inch away from the top binding. Bend all but two of the wires forward and tuck them behind the first wires that wrap around the sides and back of the gemstone. Overlap the remaining two wires at the top so you can insert an eye to put the gemstone on a necklace chain.