A harvest table has the potential to display your creative abilities. Many harvest tables are made from lumber and wood found in a shed or out-building. However, just because you live in the city doesn't mean you can't create a harvest table that tells just as much a story as those built by folk who live in the country. Minimal woodworking skills will help put your own harvest table within reach.
Place the two 2-by-4s on a table. Draw a line on both of them 1-inch from the edge down the length of the 2-by-4. Measure from one end and make a mark on the lines at 2-, 7-, 12-, 17- and 22-inches. Measure from the same end and make marks on the edge of the 2-by-4 at 1-, 3-, 6-, 8-, 11-, 13-, 16-, 18-, 21- and 23-inches. Draw a line from these marks to the ones on the line. You should have a "V" drawn in five different places. Cut the "V" out with the jigsaw.
Place the bar clamps in the "V"s. Lay the 26-inch pieces of lumber on the bar clamps. Apply glue to the long edge of one of them, place another against it, apply glue to the exposed edge of it, and place one against it. Repeat this until all five pieces are next to each other with glue in between. Clamp the five pieces together with the bar clamps. Once tight, clean excess glue with a damp cloth. This is the top of your harvest table.
Place the skirt pieces on a table. Lay the shorter ones flat and make a mark ¾-inch from the ends. Do this for both pieces. Drill two countersink holes halfway between the ends and the marks on all four ends.
Place all four of the pieces on their long edges. Measure in from the end of the 18-inch pieces, make a mark at 4-, 10- and 14-inches, and drill countersink holes on each one. Measure from the end of the 20½-inch pieces and make marks at 3¼-, 8-, 14- and 20-inches. Drill countersink holes on each mark. Apply glue to the ends of the 20 ½-inch pieces, place them between the 18-inch pieces and secure them with the drywall screws. This is the skirt of the harvest table.
Place the four 3-by-3-inch blocks on a table. Place a spindle in the corner of one and draw the outline of it on the block. Do this for the three remaining blocks. Mark the center of the area you drew and dill a countersink hole. Repeat this for the remaining three blocks. Turn the four blocks over. Measure in from the opposite end from the spindle leg and mark ¾-inch down two sides. Drill one countersink hole per side. Repeat this for the three remaining blocks.
Apply glue to the end of the spindle leg and place it on the block in the corner you marked for it to go. Secure it with a drywall screw. This is crucial for the stability of your harvest table. Repeat this for the three remaining blocks and legs. Place the legs in the four corners of the skirt from Step 4. Drill countersink holes through the face of the skirt so that a screw will secure the leg to the skirt. Pull the legs away, apply glue to the appropriate area, place the legs back and secure them to the skirt with the drywall screws.
Remove the clamps from the top and sand it smooth with a belt sander or vibrating sander and 100-grit sandpaper. You don't want anyone getting splinters from your harvest table. Place it on the table so that the bottom side is up. Make marks 2-inches around the perimeter from the edges of the harvest table top. Apply glue to the inside of these marks, place the legs/skirt on the lines and secure it through the countersink holes with the drywall screws. Clean up excess glue with a damp cloth to ensure your harvest table has a finished look.
Always wear safety glasses. As an option, you can replace the top material with ¾-plywood or medium density fiberboard. Routing a decorative edge with a router is one option for dressing the table up.
Do not leave power tools unattended. Do not attempt to use the belt sander on the top without first clamping it to a solid surface.